now, both my cousins are tall guys, well over two meters each. we waded out to the point where the waves were breaking, however the water level was just above my head a bit. for duncan, he could stand on his toes and be fine above the surface. i was having to push off the bottom to keep breathing. if you add a strong undertow to the mix, then i was using quite a bit of energy just to keep in position while i waited to catch a wave.
it wasn’t long before everything lined up and started paddling. i could feel the force of the wave start to push me, and i was off! i was really moving too! it was a nice long ride…then the wave collapsed on top of me. normal for body surfing, but i had become accustomed to holding my breath for north myrtle beach waves. after crashing down on me, i found myself still in substantially deep water and the hydraulics still tumbling me on a spin cycle. i tried to hold my breath a little longer until i could get my feet grounded and push my head above the water. wow!
it was quite the ride, quite the workout, and i felt exhausted after just one wave. i figured instead of wearing myself out and becoming that guy who makes drowning headlines in a country other than my home, i would enjoy some time on the beach catching some sun. i was right. i really would like to have spent more time body surfing. if i were younger, i would have definitely spent more time out in the waves.
i enjoyed a couple of days on the beach with my cousin and his family. it was relaxing time.
next >> south africa: final days
